BRADFORD SETT SYSTEM

See Sett System.

The number of warp threads per inch or other unit of measurement is termed the " sett." There are at least 14 different sett systems and each is denoted by the locality in which it is used. Bradford System - Number of beers of 40 threads in 36-in. Thus 72 sett Bradford = 72 X 40: 36 = 80 ends per inch. Leeds - Number of porters of 38 threads in 9-in. Thus 12 porter sett = 12 X 38: 9 = 5.06 threads per inch. Huddersfield - Dents per inch X ends per dent, thus 16's reed 3's means that there are 16 dents per inch with 3 threads per dent = 48 threads per inch. Dewsbury - Number of beers of 38 threads in 90-in. Bolton - Number of beers of 40 threads each in 24¹/₄-in. Manchester - Number of splits of two threads each in 36-in. Stockport - Number of dents of two threads in 2-in. The Stockport sett is the most convenient as the reed count or sett indicates directly the number of threads per inch in the reed without calculation providing the reeding is uniformly two ends per dent. Blackburn - Number of beers of 40 threads in 45-in. Glasgow - Number of dents two threads per dent in 37-in. Scotch Tweed - Number of porters of 40 threads in 37-in. Linen (Ireland) - Number of dents of two threads each in 40-in. These are given as 12⁰⁰, 14⁰⁰, etc. Sett 12⁰⁰ for example has 1,200 X 2: 40 = 60 threads per inch. Silk - Number of dents in 36-in., thus 1,200/4 silk sett = 1,200 X 4 - 36 = 133 ends per inch.

Reeds are counted in two systems: (1) Those in which the count or sett is expressed by the number of dents or splits contained in a given space, and include the Radcliffe, Huddersfield, Stockport, Scottish and Macclesfield systems; (2) those in which the count or sett indicates the number of groups of dents contained in a given space. These groups are variously termed beers, porties, or porters, and include the Bolton, Bradford, Dewsbury, Leeds, and Dundee systems. For details see under each system given. REED, ERDMANN - A patented reed used to weave ondule or waved patterns. The wires are specially shaped, and the reeds are raised and lowered in the loom while weaving. REED, FLEXIBLE - Specially constructed reeds used for leno weaving where the douping threads are very thick. They are made by wrapping only one baulk with pitched cord and the other with unpitched cord. REED MARKS - Marks or streaks running the warp way of the cloth. Marks uniformly across the cloth are usually due to insufficient warp threads per inch. Isolated marks may be due to a defective reed. Reed marks may also be caused by incorrect setting of the warp rollers, incorrect timing of shedding and picking, and also by wrong weighting of the warp. REED, OMBRE - A mill term in the U.S.A. for reed marks in cloth showing in the form of streaks running warp way and caused by irregular spacing of the warp threads. REEDS, ONDULE, FAN, or PAQUET - Specially constructed reeds used for weaving wave effects down the cloth. They are of many forms, and when weaving are raised and lowered as required for pattern (see Ondule)